[at-l] Centennial Trail - Part 4

[Mark Hudson]

8/26: Alkali Creek -

The weather report for today was that it was going to be HOT! With that in
mind I was up at 5:30 and out on the road at 6:10. That's right, road...
having experienced the endless switchbacks between Dalton Lake and the ridge
I headed back to 704. Stopped at Lower Wilson Spring to tank up, and hit the
climb. One hour and 15 minutes after leaving the campground I was back at
the junction of the old and new trails, but this time I turned east! Terra
Incognita – not on the map. Very nicely built trail, very fast hiking to try
to take advantage of the cool morning. It was already warmer than yesterday,
but still pretty chilly. As soon as the sun hit about 8 am you could feel
the heat, you would have been better off hiking naked <g>. Took my first
break around then, then headed back out. Just after the break I scared up a
grouse (sage hen?). Only flew about 10 feet and sat on a tree limb, must be
the western relative of the spruce grouse. Wound past one view east of the
plains and I-90., then turned back west with many more switchbacks. Started
paralleling Elk Creek Canyon, I did spot water far below, with no way to get
there. Across the canyon on the opposite edge was what I could only guess
was a small farm, but what a remote place!

Eventually switchbacked down to the dry as a bone creek bed. The trail was
damper with dew than the creek bed with water. Steep, HOT climb up to the
trail head and stopped for a break just beyond. I heard the wind blowing
pick-up truck noises, but then the wind stopped and slammed it's door. Young
guy in a pick-up at the trail head, must have headed down to check out the
creek.

After Elk Creek things got rough, no more easy switchbacks. I don't suppose
the climbs were all that rough, but they all seemed to be in the full sun,
and that was brutal. It got worse, because while the climbing was
interspersed with woods walking, eventually the trail takes you up to the
ridge top where they've cut 400' wide fire breaks. I picked a rare shady
spot for lunch and a chance to cool off, and then the Sunday afternoon
ATV-ers and 4-wheelers started going past. Given the distance I needed to
cover today and the general lack of water it was a bit nice to know they
were around in case anything went wrong.

Out yet again for more and less switchback running, every minute seemed
hotter. The first shock of the afternoon was rounding a corner and getting a
close up view of I-90, complete with traffic noise. I think the trail has
crossed three paved roads so far, so the noise was a shock. But "home" for
the evening was the other side of I-90, and so, yes, more switchback
running. Along the way I passed a gal going up on her horse. I probably
needed a break about then, but I really wanted to reach camp. To do that is
a long hot march across a field, crossing under I-90 via a culvert, and a
short climb through a cow pasture. It's amazing the difference in ecosystems
from one side of the highway to the other, the far side being the lodgepole
and Ponderosa pines, and this side being scrub oak and fields/prairie.

The map says this is a horse campground, and I had fears of the French Creek
campground next to an interstate. It's NOT a horse campground, it's a
beautiful little site in the oaks alongside a small stream, privy and
running water included.

Then I spotted a pavilion roof, wow! Shade and a place to cool off! And then
somebody is under the pavilion, and they call out my name, it's Mark and
Karen! They did the same Dalton Lake loop I did, got disgusted, and to save
their schedule got a ride over to the Elk Creek TH. They were waiting out
the heat before moving on to cut some miles off tomorrow. So while we waited
we had a great discussion, about hiking of course. Two things most of note,
Mark registered 93 degrees on his thermometer today, and if the timing is
right tomorrow I have a ride back to Rapid City!

Third surprise, pitch camp, use real tap water to scrub down Outward Bound
style, and start dinner. While eating I hear whistling behind me, a whole
flock of wild turkeys has come out for dinner and is feeding about 50' away.
Hope I got some good pics!

People pulling in and out of here, one stop for the rest rooms, a guy
walking is dog, somebody with their kids over in the day use area. But I
waiting for the campground host so I can get change to pay the site fee
here.

Rush hour is on I-90 right now, so it's a bit noisy, but I expect that to
die off. When I got here the cows across the road were making more noise
than the traffic.

14 miles from here to finish tomorrow, cooler temps according to M+K, but
lots of hiking in the open.



 8/27: Bear Butte -

A bit of a strange day in all... Started off quite warm (no condensation in
the tent), cloudy, and windy. Left Alkali Creek around 7, promptly missed a
turn and had to double back to find a fence gate. It was a
turkey-deer-deer-turkey kind of morning, And cows. LOTS of cows. Anyway,
good warm-up uphill push from that gate. Then ridge running paralleling I-90
listening to morning rush hour traffic. It wasn't a very fast day for me, on
the downhills I was still footsore from yesterday, on the uphills I was
tired from not having a rest day, and on the flats I was busy taking
pictures. Wound over to the Fort Meade area where a military type out for
his morning run scared the hell out of me, he was right next to me when he
said "Good Morning!" and I never heard him coming.

Kept expecting to catch up to Mark and Karen, and it looked like I was
following their foot prints. Stopped at the Fort Meade National Cemetery for
pics, and then just beyond for morning break. After the Fort Meade TH had to
find a rock hop across a creek, and then faced lots of climbing over rolling
hills. Did I mention the wind? And I kept expecting to see M+K over every
hill. Stopped for another break short of Bear Butte Lake, but then I had
pretty much figured out that I had passed M+K , either in camp or they went
into Fort Meade (PS, found out later they finished at 10 am).

On to Bear Butte, a mini-Katahdin; first it stands alone, like nothing else
around, and second in being sacred to the Native Americans. Took lunch at
the gateway to the summit trail, enjoying the peace of the moutain.

As I climbed there were many, many prayer flags and offerings along the
trail. The climb was also stiffer than I expected from a state park,
regardless that I still carrying my pack. I don't think there's enough words
to describe all the details of the climb, but the fact the mountain is an
eroded volcanic extrusion recovering from a 1989 forest fire just begins to
show you all the facets.

When I finally reached the summit platform I knew I wouldn't be there long,
the wind was blowing hard enough that I could lean into it – while wearing
my pack... just long enough to take pictures and it was time to go. Mother
Nature was playing tho, on the way down the wind eased and the warm sun came
out from behind the clouds. Even Mother Nature playing is a great reminder
of potential, a playful puppies nip versus the fierce growl of a wild beast.


Descended to the visitors center, checked out the exhibits, and chatted with
the woman working there. Called the airport shuttle, and when the ride
showed up at 4:30 still no sign of M+K No idea...

Now showered, fed, and tired, and ensconced in a motel room in Rapid City...

PS- Almost forgot one last gift from the trail- just before Bear Butte Lake,
among all the cattle, went bounding a mountain goat....